Marsh Hen Mill Edisto Island, SC
I never expected a drive through the Lowcountry of South Carolina to touch me in such a way I didn’t have any expectation actually, just had one stop on my mind that I truly didn’t want to miss and that was Marsh Hen Mill. This small mill is known to me for its stone ground grits and Sea Island Red Peas that I have purchased at Whole Foods. Yep, they are THAT GOOD that you want to make an extra effort to see where they come from and visit the store. My mind was on the mill and the grits and peas as we left the mainland, and some kind of magic just took over.
As the mainland starts to dissipate, you start entering the marshlands and the roads became a little narrower, bridge after bridge through the tidal marshes - each one bringing you closer to a feeling of calm, taking you away from the bustle of the mainland. The distinction between land and water get blurry as they get closer to the same level. Creeks wind between the salt marshes and all these things combined make you slow down whether you like it or not. The air seems to grow softer, and the live oaks draped with Spanish moss feel like they are softly stroking you as your hurried drive is transformed into an experience, a luxury - a journey.
Edisto Island is a less-developed barrier island, quiet with gentle ocean breezes that move through the marsh grass, quiet calls of shorebirds and a soft background hush of tidewater. The light is special with morning mists and golden hour in the evening - as the last light of the day bounces off the water and inlets and everything in view becomes a silhouette amongst shimmering light.
By the time you get good and relaxed, and you are officially on Edisto Island, you will come to the quaint and charming Marsh Hen Mill. It’s just on the right on Highway 174 and I suggest you have your cooler and plenty of room for more than just their famous grits and peas. The emphasis of this small family-owned mill is heirloom grains, rice and other local products including the most delicious Sea Island Red Peas. They use traditional techniques to preserve flavor and you’ve never seen so many varieties of cornmeal and grits. My favorite grits so far are the Unicorn Grits (of course it is). Not only is it a nice pause to visit the market, it is a chance to buy something authentic to Edisto and a taste of the Lowcountry. Then there’s the stuff in the coolers. Here’s where that room in the cooler is vital. There’s prepared frozen food - homemade casseroles, quiches, desserts and ice cream - even the semi-famous fried chicken ice cream. In the refrigerated cooler, they have a variety of farm-fresh butter and cheeses, specialty meats and lots of goodies that make for an incredible charcuterie
We got some of those peas and Unicorn Grits, butter and bacon and some other “health food” and continued our journey toward the campground and found ourselves pulling over a few minutes later at a farm stand to pick up some fresh veggies and by golly, there was another cooler. This time, Key Lime pie that I swear is the best dang Key Lime Pie I’ve ever had in my life. We should just pause here and think about that pie for another minute. I will seriously cry if they don’t have any when we go back.
Back on the road for a whole 5 or 10 minutes more and we found a roadside seafood market. Fresh-caught shrimp and flounder in tow - packed to the gills with a camper-full of gourmet delights, we were finally headed straight for the campground.
If there was a moral to this story, it would be “Enjoy the Ride” which is also a great song by Morcheeba.
